The Workers’ Voice Report 2019 is the result of a cooperation project between the Awaj Foundation and Consulting Service International Ltd. (CSI)
Bangladesh is the world’s second largest garment ex-porter. The readymade garment
(RMG) industry has been the main driver of economic growth for decades. Despite
improvements in the past, safety, health and labour conditions still put the
workers’ lives at risk. This report intends to shed light on the working condi-tions
from a gender perspective and analyse the socio-economic factors that sustain gender
inequality.
Bangladesh’s garment industry has attracted and re-tained women in employment, which
is mostly narrated as a story of female empowerment. The re-sults from this study,
however, suggest that female garment workers are far away from gender
equality.
Women make up 77% of the respondents, with the percentage dropping drastically when
it comes to more qualified positions, such as quality control, qual-ity inspection
or ironing1. Female interviewees held 68% of operator and assistant positions in
their com-panies as opposed to 13% of the male respondents, a percentage that is far
from parity.
Female workers appear to be more burdened by the responsibilities they are facing at
work and at home. Not only do more female interviewees have children, they also have
more children than the male respond-ents. Working parents can rarely count on a
supporting structure (e.g. childcare, crèche) in their factories, which is why most
of the respondents are wary of reconciling family life and work. Especially men are
reluctant to have more children under the current circumstances; their averseness
allows for the inference that they feel their societal role as breadwin-ners is at
risk.
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The Working Conditions in Bangladesh’s RMG Industry after Rana Plaza
The Workers’ Voice Report 2016 represents the collaboration of two organisations
sharing a common vision of pushing Bangladesh’s Ready Made Garment (RMG) industry
towards more sustainability. Awaj Foundation, a local NGO dedicated to fighting for
labour rights, and Consulting Service International (CSI) Ltd., a Hong Kong based
consultancy with long-term experience in advising international brands and retailers
on introducing Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) in their supply chain, are
pleased to present the third edition of the Workers’ Voice Report.
After the previous reports, reactions from other organisations encouraged us to
initiate a long-term project that seeks to determine trends within the RMG sector
and the direction it is heading to. Progress and changes relating to Occupational
Safety and Health (OSH), working hours, education or exposure to abusive behaviour
in the RMG industry, amongst other indicators, will be analysed over the course of
the time.
The main objective of the Workers’ Voice Report 2016 is to raise awareness of the
working conditions in Bangladesh’s RMG industry. After the disastrous collapse of
Rana Plaza in 2013, it is all the more important to take stock of the latest
developments and see the industry through the lens of the workers, giving them a
voice.
More than a thousand workers were interviewed between November 2015 and March 2016
by the staff of Awaj Foundation. Selected indicators provide insight into the living
and working conditions of the garment workers interviewed. Workers’ Voice is meant
to counter the continuously soaring export earnings of a thriving economic sector
with the workers’ perceptions of their industry, their aspirations and their
motivation to continue enduring often unacceptable working conditions.
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Update on Implementation of the New Wage Structure in Bangladesh’s RMG Industry
The Rana Plaza building collapse on April 24, 2013 drew the world’s attention to the
RMG industry in Bangladesh. Global media outlets, international stakeholders and
human rights groups, but also worker rights and human rights groups inside
Bangladesh, increased their pressure, demanding change and improvement in the
country’s largest industry.
One of the consequences of the disaster and the subsequent increase of tension and
unrest was the government’s decision to increase the legal minimum wage for RMG
workers, which had not been adjusted since 2010, despite strong increases of basic
living costs and high inflation rates.
On December 5, 2013, the government of Bangladesh issued the “Gazette on Minimum
Wages 2013”, which defines a new wage structure for the RMG industry with an
increase of gross monthly minimum wage from BDT 3,000 to BDT 5,300 (77%). The new
wage structure was put into effect legally on January 1, 2014.
Concerns remain, however, in regard to the implementation of the new wage structure
in Bangladesh’s RMG industry. Stakeholders, human rights and worker rights groups
claim that the RMG sector has so far not succeeded in fully implementing the new
wage structure. Statements in regard to the share of factories that have implemented
the new wage structure vary from 87% (according to employer organization BGMEA) and
40% (according to local trade unions).
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Insight into Life and Livelihood of Bangladesh’s RMG Workers
The first Workers’ Voice report is the direct result of a large-scale survey based
on individual face-to-face interviews with over 1,200 Bangladeshi garment workers
from more than 250 different factories. The interviews were conducted between June
2012 and April 2013 by the staff of AWAJ Foundation.
This survey is unique, both because of its size in respect to participants as well
as its scope in regard to subject matter. In contrast to many other research
projects in this field, Workers’ Voice does not limit itself to a specific aspect
but takes a comprehensive approach. It attempts to establish a kaleidoscopic insight
into the life of garment workers, those who are the pulse of this important and
thriving industry. Workers’ Voice recognizes the worker as a human being and not
merely as a necessary element of the RMG production process. Therefore, much space
was provided within the survey to capture the workers’ perceptions, feelings, plans
and aspirations.
Workers’ Voice represents the collaboration of three different organizations
connected by their commitment to facilitate the development of a just and
sustainable RMG industry in Bangladesh. Workers’ Voice is a true multi-stakeholder
endeavour comprising a Bangladeshi NGO dedicated to the fight for workers’ rights, a
local think-tank and watchdog of Bangladesh’s labour issues, and a Hong Kong based
CSR consultancy with many years of experience in the global apparel
business.
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Living Wages in the RMG Sector
With Bangladesh' garment industry earning 80% of the country's total imports, the
living wage of this industry's workers has been the focal point of an ongoing and
heated debate. The many clashes that have occurred between angry workers and factory
owners from 2006 until present, reiterate the fact that the new minimum wage set at
BDT 3,000 per month still does not allow for a minimum standard life. In the RMG
sector there are many different opinions about what the minimum living wage should
be, while none are universally accepted. Therefore, this report investigates whether
Bangladesh' present minimum wage is sufficient for garment workers to lead a minimum
standard life. The actual amount will vary across the country, from place to place,
as a living wage considers what is sufficient to fulfil the minimum basic demands of
life.
In doing so, four different calculations were applied to five different areas in
Bangladesh in order to calculate the living wage, including the internationally
accepted Social Accountability International (SAI) standard. Additionally, basic
costs such as food-, home rent-, medical-, minimum-, education- and other necessary
expenses were taken into account, through survey questionnaires. Based on these four
calculation methods, quite a large variation was identified in the appropriate
living wages in the different areas. The lowest figure was identified in the Rangpur
area where a living wage of BDT 4,433 is necessary. This is approximately 45% lower
than that of Dhaka, where the highest living wage of BDT 8,114 was identified. The
second highest living wage levels calculated are in Chittagong, while greater Dhaka
(Narayanganj) had the lowest assessed living wage level.
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An Analysis of 1000 Interviews with Workers in Bangladesh
Production practices in Bangladesh and therefore also European textile companies are
constantly facing public criticism. Working conditions within the supply chain are
criticised. Arguments range from underpayment, child labour and discrimination to
poor living and working conditions.
Over the last couple of years, Bangladesh has developed as a major site of the
world's textile production. Agriculture and the ever-growing textile industry have
begun to form the core employment sectors. However, Bangladesh is still one of the
poorest developing countries in the world. According to the United Nation's Human
Development Report 2010, Bangladesh is ranked 129th out of 169 countries worldwide.
Every year, thousands of rural residents move into the area of the mega-city of
Dhaka. Dhaka is already home to around 13 million people and according to United
Nations projections, the city will have almost 17 million inhabitants in 2015. The
increasing formation of slums is only one consequence. Approximately 40 percent of
the city's population lives in slums. But the prospect of work continues to attract
rural workers.
But how do the workers view their own situation? And what problems and needs do they
express? Many of the claims and arguments in the dispute between stakeholders,
media, NGOs and business are based on western values and a western world view. What
is really important to the people in Bangladesh? And how do they really live in
Dhaka?
To obtain answers to those questions is not easy. Many adults, especially women, are
illiterate. Official information can be obtained from few and not often credible
sources.
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